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Parish of Kilteevogue, Co. Donegal
Memoir by Lieut. Wilkinson (received 6th November 1839)

Kilteevogue, this name is usually pronounced as it is written and is said to be derived from the Irish 'cill taobog' or in English 'the church of Teeboge'. There is a tradition that a virgin named Teevoge nee Divenny (Devenny) founded the church, which stands in the glebe at Ballybotemple.

Situation The parish of Kilteevogue is situated in the county of Donegal in the barony and diocese of Raphoe.
Boundaries It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Convoy and Conwall, on the west by the parish of Inniskeel and on the south and east by the parishes of Killymard, Donegal and Stranorlar. It occupies the western extremity of the barony of Raphoe.
Extent The outline of the parish is irregular, its greatest length from north to south is about 11 miles and its greatest breadth from east to west about 10 miles comprising an area of ……. Acres nearly. These are divided into ….. denominations or townlands.
Natural Features

Gaugin and Altnapaste
The parish of Kilteevogue is a wild mountainous district. The principal mountains are:

Gagin, rising to the height of (1865) feet above the sea
Altnapaste, rising to 1,199 feet
And in the portion of the parish north of the River Finn:
Arbatt, 938 feet,
Altlaghan, 840 feet
Rivers

River Finn
River Reelin

The Finn traverses the parish of Kilteevogue for about 8 miles. It is unnavigable, flowing in a rocky channel with numerous fords and gravel beds formed during the heavy floods to which it is subject.

The Reeland river joins the Finn, nearly in the centre of the parish, and a considerable number of smaller streams throughout its course some of which appear tinged with iron ore. No other springs of a mineral nature have been discovered. The parish is in general well supplied with water.

Bogs The parish of Kilteevogue is well supplied with bog in which a considerable quantity of timber chiefly fir and oak occurs imbedded. It is generally used for fuel but the large logs, some of which sell as high as 3 pounds, are also used for roofing houses and forming axle trees for the wheel of corn and flax mills.
Villages There is no town in the parish but a considerable number of small villages.

Public Buildings

Church The parish church is situated in the glebe of Ballybotemple and is said to have been originally erected by a virgin named Teevoge nee Divenny. It was rebuilt in the year 1774 partly by the Board of First Fruits and partly by the parishioners. It contains seats for about 250 persons. The Glebe house adjoining was built in the year 1779 by the late Rev. Mr. Butt. The Roman Catholic portion of the inhabitants usually bury in the churchyard.
Roman Catholic Chapel In the townland of Brockagh, the building of a Roman Catholic chapel was commenced in 1799. The walls still remain but it never was roofed ( though divine service was performed in it till the present chapel was built) on account of a dispute amongst the parishioners respecting the situation which was considered too high up Glenfin. There is an altar near it which was used periodically until the year 1799. The present chapel is situated in the townland of Kiltyferrigal. It was built in 1825 by subscription from persons of all persuasions and will hold about 800 persons.

The parish priest has a curate to assist him, the Roman Catholic parish comprising also that of Stranorlar. His endowments are estimated at 200 pounds per annum.
Corn and Flax Mills There is a corn and flax mill in the townland of Kinaderry. The cornmill is of about 16 horse power, the diameter of the wheel 12 feet, its breadth 2½ feet and the fall of water 9 feet. It will grind about 20 barrels of meal in 12 hours.

The flax mill is of 10 horse power, the diameter of its wheel 10 feet, the breadth 1 foot 8 inches and fall of water 6 feet. Both these wheels are breast shot.

The mills are let to Michael Martin with a farm of about 41 acres of land at a yearly rent of 46 pounds 13 shillings.

 

Communications The main road from Stranorlar to Fintown passes through the parish for about…. Miles parallel to the River Finn. It is not much used and therefore is in tolerable order but the same road near Stranorlar is in a very bad state as are the by-roads leading to the mountains.
Bridges There is but one bridge over the River Finn in the parish which crosses at Cloghanmore on the road to Ballybofey and the Reeland bridge from a small river of that name which falls into the Finn near it. The inhabitants assert that no bridge built in any other place could withstand the torrent of water in the winter.
The River Finn and Fishery The River Finn from Ballybofey to this place is in general about 4 to 5 feet in depth having shallow fords where the depth of water is usually from 2 to 3 feet. There is a salmon leap on the river close to Reeland bridge. It is about 25 feet high and the scenery with the bridge extremely picturesque. The fishery belongs to Sir Charles Style and the fish are usually taken by means of a net fastened to a hoop through which they leap.
Gentlemen's Seats

Glenmore Castle - Residence of Sir Charles Style
Cloghan Lodge - his Hunting Lodge
Cloghan Lodge, the residence of Sir Charles Style, is situated on the road from Stranorlar to Fintown. It is surrounded with thriving and ornamental plantations of fir, beech and alder and commands a very romantic view of Glenfin and the adjacent mountains.

The residence of Sir Charles Style is of the greatest benefit to his neighbourhood and has materially assisted in repressing the illicit distillation which was carried on to a considerable extent. He is a magistrate of the county. Cloghan Lodge is the only gentlemen's seat in the portion of the parish north of the river Finn.

Social Economy

Social Economy/Dispensary The Kilteevogue and Stranorlar dispensary is supported one half by private subscriptions and the other by a grant from the grand jury of the county. The medical attendant is surgeon Davis of Stranorlar. His salary is 75 pounds per annum. Monday is the day of attendance in Stranorlar and Saturday in Kilteevogue each week. Between 1,400 and 1,500 persons are annually relieved.
Social and Productive Economy/ Farms A considerable portion of the land in the parish is mountain pasture and bog. The extent of the farms consequently varies very considerably. Some are so small that they do not exceed 2 acres (Cunningham) while others comprise 400.
Crops They produce oats, flax, potatoes and hay, in 1 or 2 spots some barley. The land yields on an average 150 stone of oats to the Cunningham acre which will sell in August on the ground (the money to be paid before Christmas) for from 5 to 7 pounds the Cunningham acre.

The quantity of land under potatoes is almost entirely dependent on the quantity of manure the cultivator may have for the purpose, perhaps one-third of the arable land in most cases.
Manure The manures used are chiefly lime, compost of lime and bog, earth and dung.
Rents The highest rate at which land is let in this parish is 25 shillings the Cunningham acre but very little at that rate.
Fairs Fairs are held at Cloghan-beg, free of all tolls and customs on the 1st of February, 19th of May, 25th of August and 19th of November principally for the sale of cattle, yarn and drugget.
Manufactures The manufacture of linen and yarn was very considerable. Until the last few years, it was carried on in the houses of individuals and not by means of a general manufactory. Course drugget, woollen cloth and worsted stockings are still manufactured to some extent.

Population

Population The census ordered to be taken by government in 1822 was very imperfectly done. The number of houses returned were 677 with an amount of population 3,735 inhabitants. I should estimate the number of dwellings at not less than 900 and the average number of inhabitants in each at 5 and a half. This would make the amount of population a little short of 5,000, nor should I consider it over rated at that. Of this population there are of Protestants 147 families, average 808 individuals, 10 families of Presbyterians average 50 persons. There is no return of Roman Catholics but they may be estimated at 4,142 as including the rest of the population.

Population of Kilteevogue from census 1834: members of the Established Church 933, Roman Catholics 3,587, Presbyterians 56, total 4,576.
Schools There are 2 schools in the parish on Robertson's foundation, 1 at Welchtown, and 1 at Altnapaste, 78 scholars and one Sunday school (Sunday School Society), 38 scholars on the average.
Labour A day labourer in this parish receives 10d per day, for turf cutting 1 shilling for mowing 18d. without diet. Agricultural servants are hired by the half year at from 2 to 4 pounds, boarded and lodged.
County Cess The amount of county cess levied in this parish for the 5 years has varied from 350 pounds to 390 pounds per annum. For this account of the parish of Kilteevogue I am indebted to Sir Charles Style.
Advowson The Dean of Raphoe appointed a perpetual curate for the duties of this parish. The present value of the living is about 140 pounds per annum and was attached to the deanery of Raphoe.

The parish has been erected into a rectory entire by an act of council pursuant to a clause in the church temporalities bill.

Sir Charles Style pays the tithe for all the tenants on his estate and gives great encouragement to them to keep their houses clean etc. and has granted to the poorer sort 2 pounds each for whitewash etc.

Natural Features/Geology


Natural Features/Geology The parish of Kilteevogue is a primitive country. The soil never continues of the same stratum either far or deep. In places are to be met with rock crystal, quartz, mica slate, granite, limestone in detached rocks, pyrites, lead and iron ore.
Geology: Minerals and Quarries The streams flowing from the north into the River Finn appear to be strongly impregnated with iron. There is an excavation in the townland of Welchtown called an old silver mine which was opened by the agent of the late Sir Charles Style in 1775 with miners from England but no silver is said to have been procured. The ore was transported on horses' backs as no road existed at the time, the leading road from Stranorlar to Fintown now passes within …. Of the place. The excavation extends about 30 yards, cut out of the rock and the roof is in some places upwards of 6 feet high, the passages in general about 5 feet wide

Social Economy/Analysis of Population

Statistical table of the following townlands north of the River Finn in the parish of Kilteevogue as taken from census and enquiry made in 1830's.

Arbaltt (Ardbatt) 10 inhabited buildings, 14 dwelling houses and families, 11 outhouses, 21 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Altlaghan 26 inhabited buildings, 38 dwelling houses and families, 12 outhouses, 3 ruins, 41 buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Ballybotemple 6 inhabited buildings, 11 dwelling houses and families, 11 outhouses, 17 buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Ballynatone 9 inhabited buildings, 10 dwelling houses and families,20 outhouses, 1 ruin, 30 buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Brockagh 17 inhabited buildings, 23 dwelling houses and families, 10 outhouses, 1 uninhabited house, 2 ruins, 30 dwellings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Cloghanbeg 8 inhabited buildings, 11 dwelling houses and families, 12 outhouses, 2 ruins, 22 dwellings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Cloghanmore 6 inhabited buildings, 6 dwelling houses and families, 6 outhouses, 1 uninhabited house, 1 ruin, 14 total houses, landlord Sir Charles Style
Corlecky 22 inhabited houses, 32 dwelling houses and families, 21 outhouses, 3 ruins, 46 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Cullagh No buildings of any sort, landlord Sir Charles Style
Deregnalore 8 inhabited buildings, 9 dwelling houses and families, 1 outhouse, 1 ruin, 10 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Gallweely (Galwolie) 13 inhabited buildings, 17 dwelling houses and families,18 outhouses, 5 ruins, 36 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Glebe 1 inhabited building, 1 dwelling house and family, 4 outhouses, 5 total buildings, landlord Rev. Mr Ramsey
Killtyfergal (Kiltyferrigal) 20 inhabited buildings, 27 dwelling houses and families, 28 outhouses, 1 ruin, 49 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Kinnaderry 16 inhabited buildings, 23 dwelling houses and families, 18 outhouses, 1 uninhabited house, 35 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Lettershamboe 1 inhabited building, 1 dwelling house and family, 1 outhouse, 2 ruins, 4 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Letterbrick 24 inhabited buildings, 24 dwelling houses and families, 13 outhouses, 1 ruin, 38 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Meenbog 2 ruins, 2 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Meenenamph 1 inhabited building, 1 dwelling house and family, total 1 building, landlord Sir Charles Style
Meenahorna 4 inhabited buildings, 5 dwelling houses and families, 2 outhouses, total 6 buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Meengilcharry (Meenlaharry) 17 inhabited buildings, 24 dwelling houses and families, 5 outhouses, 22 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Monienahasragh 1 inhabited building, 1 dwelling house and family, 4 outhouses, 5 total buildings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Tullytrasna 1 inhabited building, 1 dwelling house and family, 1 total building, landlord Sir Charles Style
Welchtown 19 inhabited buildings, 23 dwelling houses and families, 27 outhouses, 1 uninhabited house, 4 ruins, 51 total dwellings, landlord Sir Charles Style
Total 230 inhabited buildings, 322 dwelling houses and families, 224 outhouses, 4 uninhabited houses, 28 ruins, 486 total number of buildings

Schools


Welchtown Protestants: 10 males, 9 females
Presbyterians: 1 male, 5 females
Roman Catholics: 5 males, 6 females,
Total: 36 pupils

The master of this school receives a salary of 8 pounds 6 shillings from Robinson's fund, 2 pounds from the Dean of Raphoe and 9 pounds from the scholars making in all the sum of 19 pounds 6 shillings per annum. He charges each scholar the sum of 1 shilling 6d per quarter. They learn reading, writing and arithmetic. His name is James Witter, a Protestant.
Arbatt Roman Catholics: 18 males, 2 females
Total: 20 pupils;

This school is taught in one of the dwelling houses. The master has nothing to depend upon but the children's payments which amount to about 4 pounds per annum. He charges each scholar the sum of 1 shilling per quarter. They learn reading, writing and arithmetic. The master's name is Michael Ivers, a Roman Catholic.
Altlaghan Protestants: 3 males, 2 females
Roman Catholics: 76 males, 14 females, t
Total 95 pupils

This school is taught under the Hibernian Society. The master receives on an average the sum of 6 pounds per annum from the society and about 12 pounds from the children making in all about 18 pounds per annum. They learn reading, writing and arithmetic. The master's name is John Ivers, A Roman Catholic.
Glebe Protestants: 7 males, 1 female
Roman Catholics: 18 males, 4 females
Total 30 pupils

The master's name is Charles Hume, a Protestant. He teaches his scholars reading, writing and arithmetic and charges them from 1 to 2 shillings per quarter. He estimates his yearly salary at about 6 pounds a year. He has no benefit from any society.

NB:

Many townlands in the Parish of Kilteevogue are given no mention in Lieut. Wilkinson's report, believed to be seen here in its entirity. It is not known if another section was added at a later date or if perhaps Wilkinson, in the writing of his survey, may have had some time restrictions and/or less than accurate information from local residents of the time.

Many thanks to Maureen Gallagher, Montreal, Canada and Billy Patton, Lifford Old Courthouse for the Statistical Report.