Derry City
- present day
During the Siege of Derry, the Finn Valley and all the Laggan
was in the hands of the Jacobite Army, under the leadership
of Captain Richard Hamilton.
(The Hamiltons - the Abercorns - were granted much land around
Strabane in the Plantation of Ulster. There were both Catholic
and Protestant branches of the family, so there were Hamiltons
on both sides, during the war. Captain James Hamilton, a Protestant,
was sent by King William to Derry. It was his uncle, Richard
Hamilton, who held the Jacobite Army along the Finn. He was
an experienced soldier, holding the rank of Lieut. General.)
The O'Donnells, though their land had been confiscated, were
still strong. They raised an army and put it on the Jacobite
side, as did many of the deposed Irish. Patrick Sarsfield
was based at Sligo, and could not move further North than
Bundrowes, until a strong Protestant force was cleared out
of Belleek and Ballyshannon. His force had an unsuccessful
skirmish with Enniskilleners who brought supplies up the Erne,
to the Army at Ballyshannon. Sarsfield's friend, James
Fitzjames, Duke of Berwick, was sent from Derry to
the Finn - with the object of joining up with him (King James's
natural son). The Duke had what was called a Flying Camp -
a mobile force of 400 cavalry and dragoons. He made his headquarters
at Liscooley. A house there is still called Berwick Hall and
the nearby well, where the horses were watered - the Duke's
Well.
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| Old
postcard of Barnesmore Gap (circa 1870) |
James Fitzjames was only nineteen at the time, but already
a seasoned soldier. He later became a distinguished Marshal
of France. He first went through the Gap of Barnesmore and
attacked Donegal Town, which was garrisoned by 300 Williamite
troops. He attacked the town at daybreak. He burned the town
and commandeered fifteen hundred animals - oxen, cows and
sheep. But the garrison retired to Donegal Castle, which they
held. Berwick's next plan was to attack was to attack Enniskillen.
He moved to Trillick, twelve miles away, but was then recalled
by Marshal Rosen to deal with a Williamite force which had
come in to Lough Swilly.
Hearing of the advance of the Jacobite Army along the Finn,
Colonel Lundy sent out an order -
"All officers and all armed men that can - and will
- fight for their country and religion against Popery, shall
appear on the fittest ground near Cladyford and Long Causeway
as shall be nearest to their quarters; there to draw up
battalions to be ready to fight the enemy and to preserve
our lives and all that is dear to us."
These orders were sent all over the Laggan, and all males
between the ages of sixteen and sixty were asked to report
at different centres. Lundy was blamed for the defeat and
accused of treachery. He was criticised for not holding the
Jacobites at Long Causeway, near St. Johnston, but ordering
a retreat to Derry.
It was more likely hasty planning, rather than treachery,
that caused the trouble. Also, the volunteers, though brave
and eager to fight, had no military experience to match the
Jacobite Army along the Finn, most of whom were seasoned soldiers
who had seen service on the Continent .
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| King James I |
Marshal Rosen was a German who had served forty years in
the French Army. He was a good soldier but a merciless foe.
He would have been responsible for the scorched-earth policy
that left the Finn Valley and all East Donegal ' a desolate
place.' King James was said to have been very angry with Rosen
for his barbarous behaviour.
We read-
"When the Duke of Berwick and his Troop of Horse left,
money was scarce in Donaghmore. Any homestead that had not
been pillaged and burned to the ground would be a bare and
desolate one. Donaghmore is a sad and desolate place at the
minute."
Things were much the same in 1607, after the defeat of the
Irish, when Government troops carried out a policy of burning
and destroying property, cattle and crops. Such were the horrors
of war.
Rev. William Henry, Rector of Killesher, Co. Fermanagh, travelled
through the area in 1739.
He describes Finn Water as "a large river, for its
stillness and size, somewhat like the Boyne." He traces
it from Lough Finn to the 'small market town of Ballymafey/Stranorlar;
past Cavan, the seat of Lord Mountjoy, where there is a beautiful
oak wood with remarkable straight stems.' Donaghmore, where
Cairnes Henderson had a beautiful seat with well laid-out
garden. Castlefin where there was a ferry. Clady Bridge -
'Where the Derrymen in 1689 were barely betrayed by their
infamous Governor Col. Lundy, who having sold them into the
hands of their enemies, sent them out with no ammunition.'
The story against Lundy had not improved with time! Rev.
Henry seemed to think the country was in a good enough state,
but a survey of Castlefin Manor, carried out in 1750, reads-
"Though it is nothing at present but a heap of ruins
- having scarcely either house or tenant in it worth taking
notice of - it is exceedingly well placed for trade. It
lies in the middle of well planted country, by the side
of a navigable river, by which they may go every Spring
tide with boats or lighter of ten tons, to and from Londonderry.
The whole country about it is as remarkable for flax and
yarns, as any. Would the proprietors get a bridge built
over the river, which could be done for less than £400,
or lay out land in the adjacent farms to accommodate the
town, with the town tenancies being set in long leases -
to traders of substance - it would turn to great advantage
to both town and country."
Apparently, the countryside had recovered well - but the
village of Castlefin was a bit of a mess!
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